Monday, December 28, 2009

Christmas, New Years, and Michael Jackson

Christmas has come and gone, and now I looked forward to a new year and a new decade. I spent the very nice holiday with 5 friends, and my new dog Bob, at my friends house here in Tenkodogo. We made burritos, sushi, and drank some delicious West African beer. The best presents I got this year, a new puppy and a visit by my fellow Peace Corps Guinea Volunteer, Obden, who was taking a trip to see me and Phil from his new post in Benin.


But alas, that is old news, and as this time of year always goes, it's out with the old and in with the new. I am going to Ouagadougou for New Years for what will hopefully be a very fun filled evening with what I estimate to be 50+ fellow volunteers and friends. It should be a very good time. But more than just New Years and its festivities, I wanted to take a moment to reflect on 2009.


2009 was a chaotic year for me, and a very important one as well. Outside of seeing President Barack Obamas inauguration and all the change that has brought, 2009 was a dramatic year of change for me personally. After breaking my knee cap on January 6th, my whole life 360d, sending me into what eventually became one crazy roller coaster ride in parts all over the world. After being denied a post in Uganda, I have seen the West Coast of the USA, lived in three different countries in West Africa, and through it all I have grown up more than I thought possible.


While I won't go into many details, much of it is too personal even for my blog, I wanted to say thank you to everyone and every thing that had an impact in my life this year. It was a fantastic year to be Dylan Butler, and I would not trade any of it for anything.


2010 of course brings a whole new set of challenges. I have now been at site for almost a month, and I begin to teach in less than two weeks. For better or for worse, it's about time to begin a job. That brings out unaccoutable stress, but it's my job and I am ready to step in and help my school in any way I can. They gave me a house with power and water, the least I can do is teach a few classes. To everyone else, may this decade be as interesting and healthy for you as it was for me. Life is a great experience and it never stops, so just enjoy it.


So why Michael Jackson you ask? Well he did die this year, as the whole world knows. No no, you must check out the new addition of TIME magazine this week, there is a photo taken by my friend Kevin Roche that was published, it's Peace Corps Guinea doing the thriller dance, and I'm in it! Well I don't know if I'm in the photo, but I was there, doing the dance! So please, someone send it to me.

Monday, December 14, 2009

Got My Ass A Bed, Because I Am Petron Like That

So Step 1 of the Dylan moving into apartment is complete, I am no longer sleeping on the floor. My bed, made by a local carpenter (carpentor, how does one spell that?), is actually quite awesome and petit-en-petit my house is coming togethor. Got a closet also, nice. Chairs and table are on the way as well, maybe my Christmas present?

In other news, December 11th was Independence Day. Independence Day consists of a nice march that unfortunately goes on for q bit too long for my tastes, but it was still a good time. It started with a military march, and then the school parade (with every school in the area). But by the end I was quite bored, and along with my friend we returned home. When all was said and done, we got a beer and then I took a nice nap.

Coolest thing about the parade: I got to sit in the King's section. Why, because I am petron like that. The King walked in with his own personal drum group (man I wish I had my own drum theme song when I walked in public). It wasn't the best rhythmic display I have ever seen, but it didn't matter, it was still an awesome display. I was in a whole array of photos that day, partially because I sat behind the King of the Mossi, and partially because I am petron like that.

Next day was quite the opposite. I was quite ill, stricken with what I like to call the I-Ate-Something-I-Will-Regret-Later syndrome. And oh yes, it was a very long Saturday indeed. But never fear, I am back to fine health.

Petron status: Recovered.

One more good story for the day before I chat a little bit about my situation. I totally and completely destroyed this guy's computer today. He thinks it's ok because around here I am known as the computer wizard (Which is a BIIIIIG mistake I must add). Little does he know that I'm totally freaking out because I have no idea how the hell I am going to fix this thing. But whatever, I'll figure it out, because I am petron like that.

Ok so a little more about Tenko. I am making friends very quickly, through basketball, school, and other methods. It's very easy to draw attention here, being the only white resident in a town of 30,000 will do that. My buddy, the school Censeur, speaks English quite well, and loves to drink a cold beer with me from time to time. There is nothing better than a cold beer in 100 degree heat. My other good friends are two older students at the school. They want to learn English more than anything so I negotiated a deal with them, one day English, one day French. One can actually rap in English, though he does not always understand what he is saying. The other is a total computer dork, and loves undoing all my work.

Between learning how to cook, fixing computers, learning French, and generally screwing around (or up), I manage to keep quite busy here.

Merry Christmas to all!

It has come to my attention that some folks don't know the meaning of Petron. Well in the dictionary it would look a little like this:

Petron: pé-trone n. Dylan, boss

And for those who do know me, I am totally not a petron. The only reason I got to sit behind the King was because I got there at 6:30 AM, at least two hours before the real petrons got there.

Monday, December 7, 2009

I Have a Toilet....

Oh yes, that is no typo, j'ai une toilette. Or as I like to call it, the patron throne. Yes I only have a limited amount of time left on the comp to write this, but I just wanted to provide a quick update about nmy town. I live in a pretty well populated area with a bunch of Volunteers around me (40k or so) and 3 Japanese JICA Volunteers, or better said the Japanese Peace Corps. One of them speaks English very well and I meet her sometimes for a quick beer, which , unlike in Guinea, is a perfectly acceptable habit.

I live in an apartment by the school, which is massive and has running water and electricity (which I don't have to pay for). I am already helping in my computer lab and the English Club, but I don't start teaching until next month, which is fine by me. Tenkodogo, in short, is a pretty sweet place and I think I will like it here a lot:. Hell, I survived a week already, one night longer than Tormelin.

Oh and before I leave, Guinea is not doing well. Dadiss was shot and it looks as if civil war is approaching. Please continue to hold Guinea in your hearts.

Monday, November 30, 2009

Finally...

So after almost 5 months of living out of a suitcase, I am finally moving into a house. I’m going to be a bit selfish here, but nobody else in the Peace Corps deserve a home more than me and Peace Through Chemistry. We have been through a lot, stretching ourselves and tolerating as much as we possibly could, and finally we are being rewarded. Tomorrow, December 1st, 2009, I will be at a site for what I hope will be the last house I have in the Peace Corps.

I have heard many a good thing about my town too. I have electricity and running water, with multiple bedrooms, and a nice courtyard. I am very close to my school (within walking distance) and right in the middle of town. By the way, Wikipedia put my town at 40,000. Peace Corps puts the count at unofficially 200,000. 200,000 is a hell of a lot larger than my tiny village of Tormelin.

Oh and cool but unrelated, the biggest game reserve in Burkina is fairly close to my site. It comes complete with lions, elephants, leopards, and other furry and scaly critters.

But, I’m a city boy, and I think a big city will do just fine for me. It means food whenever I want it, cold beer, and the ability to “get away.” One thing that I have really learned about rural vs. urban communities is that in urban areas, you can actually escape much easier to the comforts of your own home than you can in a rural area. Of course that means that some of your “celebrity” is minimized and you may be considered to a tourist by those who don’t know you. But like everything in life, you have your positives and negatives. This whole experience, believe or not, has made me a much more positive and patient person.

So cool things about my site visit! I went to Bobo which is the most beautiful city that I have seen so far in West Africa. Tree lined streets with a relatively mild temperature makes for a very green and wonderful town. The area as a whole is teeming with interesting geography and hippo lakes. I did not get to see any hippo lakes this time unfortunately, but that only will inspire me to go again.

Last but not least, I wanted to wish everyone a belated Happy Thanksgiving and bon fete de Tobaski. Tobaski, for those unfamiliar, is a Muslim holiday associated with the moon that essentially means the end all for every goat on the planet, similar to how Thanksgiving is the end all for every Turkey. See the metaphor? Tobaski is the Muslim Thanksgiving and this year it just happened to have landed on the day after Thanksgiving.

I also wanted to say a few things I am thankful for.

-My friends and family back home for their love and support, without it my Peace Corps experience would not be possible

-My stupid cat Harry that continues to live in spite of us all.

-Being born in the USA. You really have no idea how much opportunity you have as Americans until you have lived in Africa.

-My fellow Volunteers, Guinea and Burkina. Without any of you and the experiences that we go through together, the Peace Corps would just not be the same.

-And a special “thanks” to my 4 fellow Gvac Volunteers. We have driven each other absolutely insane, and I would not

Sunday, November 15, 2009

First Impressions of a Land Baked in Sunlight

There is not a day that goes by where I sit and wonder what my life would have been like had I not chosen to join the Peace Corps. Not a day goes by where I don’t ask myself, “Why did I come here?”

As I sent back at the end of my second training, I think what if I had taken the COS option, what if Guinea reopens, what if I reenrolled somewhere else? It’s all the past now. Reading up on other stories and hearing about the unity that training groups share makes me yearn for that again. I don’t have that anymore. G-18 is a memory, separated by a month in Bamako, two weeks in Ouagadougou, and miles of distance between our respective new sites.

I have had one of the more bizarre Peace Corps experiences. I’ve been a Volunteer for almost 2 months now, a time usually considered the most important 3 months of community integration. While most Volunteers spend their 3 months learning the language of their village, the culture, the food, and everything else that comes with our service, I took a different path. I was evacuated from Guinea, moved to Bamako for a month, and ending up in Burkina Faso for what I hope to be a permanent move. I’ve been living out of a suitcase for 4 ½ months, and will continue to do so until the end of November when I finally get the chance to settle in.

Hell, I could write my own Lonely Planet with my experiences if I really wanted to. In the process I’ve racked up 3 long term work visas to 3 different countries, a large appetite for wild foods, and a real nice tan. Well the third one is not true, good ol’ Meflo prevents that from happening. I have a tan, but it’s generally from the dirt that covers my body after a day of being outside in Africa in the dry season.

Burkina Faso is an amazing place. Guinea is an amazing place. Mali, is, um, well I’ll leave that one out. The next two weeks of my life include a visit to the Southwest corner of Bobo-Diollaso, or better put the land of hippos. Yeah, that’s right, hippos. And don’t worry mom, I won’t go swimming with the hippos, I like my life.

So here I am; sitting in a nice air conditioned computer lab at the Peace Corps Burkina Faso Office, writing to you all. If you had asked me where I would be now from when I left les Etats-Unis, I certainly would have never imagined it would be the capital of Burkina, a name which nobody can even pronounce.

First impressions and differences between Burkina and Guinea:

Burkina Faso is actually poorer than Guinea, but Wikipedia facts can be deceiving. Burkina Faso is much more developed than Guinea, roads are paved, there are street lights and buses, electricity in the capital, and cheeseburgers! Guinea has more money than Burkina yes, and the potential for Guinea to grow is certainly there. With a stable government you could see Guinea become one of the wealthiest countries in West Africa with its mineral wealth. So why does a desert country like Burkina with no natural resources or water do better than a country like Guinea, which has the largest aluminum wealth on the planet?

Corruption, corruption, corruption. It’s very difficult to tell someone why in fact these countries are so different. I mean come on, Guinea and Burkina are both so low on the development scale that for any American, both countries would be a total shock. It all comes down to perspective. At first glance they are both worlds behind the USA, but after having lived here for a 4 months those differences have now disappeared. I can now see just how important having a stable government can be in creating a country that works. In Guinea, the money goes nowhere except directly into the pockets of a few high ranking military officials. In Burkina, the little money that exists goes into building roads, power lines, and pipelines. The military here actually serves to protect the people, not exploit them.

I cannot even begin to explain the differences geographically either. Burkina Faso is hot. It gets so ridiculously hot that when the temperature drops below 80 people wear coats. And I’m not talking about locals either. I have to wear a fleece at night because I end up waking up in the middle of the night freezing. There are no mountains here; Burkina is flat as a pancake. There are no major sources of water, and only when you go to the extreme east or southwest do you begin to see wildlife and plant life. In the north you find the beginning of the Sahara. Nothing grows up there.

Yet Volunteers here are extremely happy. The staff is great, the access to amenities is top notch (Again all relative), and there is beer! Oh yes folks, there is lots of beer, and it’s cold. I can bitch and complain all I want about the heat, but there is nothing like a delicious cold beer in the hot desert. One day I hope you will get to experience the feeling a frothy cold one after a long day of work and extreme heat.

I am very happy here so far. While I continue to think about what could have been, I have been very satisfied with the welcome we have received. Volunteers are amazing, the expat community (that’s right there is a large expat community here) is friendly, but most importantly the Burkinabes are wonderful. The staff and the other Volunteers are doing everything they can to make us feel welcome here, a vibe not received in Mali. There is ultimate Frisbee pickup on Sundays, a pool near the Volunteer House, and an amazing American brunch!

I do hope that Guinea opens up as soon as possible. There is a debate amongst Volunteers about why we evacuated and if the means were necessary. While I won’t comment on my personal view, for the sake of my fellow Volunteers who wish to reinstate as soon as possible, Guinea does deserve the Peace Corps. I am Peace Corps Burkina Faso, I am not allowed to reinstate, but those who chose to wait it out deserve the chance go back. Plus I want to put that Guinea two year visa to use.

Oh I also watched Burkina Faso beat Malawi 1-0 in my second football match in Africa. Yeah, I could get used to being here.

Tenkodogo, get ready for Mamadou, your first Peace Corps Volunteer!

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

A Stark Contrast

Well I am on a flight tomorrow. Air Burkina at 3 PM, direct from Bamako to Ouagadougou (man I don't know if I will ever be able to spell that right. To copy my buddy Peace Through Chemistry, I have posted 3 maps showing the three different places that I will have claimed as a home. I'm not counting Bamako because I plan on writing this place off as soon as we get out of here.

Forecharia, Guinea


View Larger Map

My house is located below the massive soccer stadium all the way at the end of the road in the bottom right of the map.

Tormelin, Guinea


View Larger Map

Smallest town I have ever lived in by far. If you find the dirt soccer stadium, look for a round circular building. My house is located right below that building.

Tenkodogo, Burkina Faso


View Larger Map

No idea where my house is. Can you tell me the obvious difference between the first two photos and the third photos? Give up? Notice the serious lack of green.

I'm in the desert.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Tubaniso is Empy

As the title states, Tubaniso is empty. Well empty, except for me, and a few other transfers still waiting in this fake village until we finally get to leave. While I don't want to rant on how this placed has eaten the souls of many of my fellow Volunteers, just ask my folks for details on that, I did want to spend a paragraph trying to illustrate the exact scene of despair that has become Tubaniso.

This place, as I stated before, eats away at your happiness. Aided by the rain it seems, I am so excited to get out of here. You cannot keep 90 some Americans cooped up for long until people begin to rebel. While we have not rebelled in the physical sense, emotionally everyone has checked out of the place. They give us a per diem to keep us happy, but if there is anything I have learned of this experience, it's that you cannot buy happiness. No amount of money in the world helps when you all you do in the day is wait for a bus to take you into town for 4 hours. We have been reduced to children going on field trips. I can't wait to get out of here.

Now this is not to talk ill of the support that we have received, a lot of the negativity can be blamed on the isolation. The Guinea staff and the evacuation staff did a great job. It's so easy to blame them for our problems, yet in so doing we tend to forget about how stressful life is for everyone, especially the people responsible for catering to the every whims of a lot of frustrated Peace Corps Volunteers. I won't comment on the timeliness of the situation or how it was handled in the "higher" levels, but just now that I will officially have spent one month of my service sitting in the Peace Corps Mali training center appropriately called Tubaniso, meaning town of white people.

Guinea does not deserve what has happened to it. I have kept silent enough in my blog about my personal thoughts, and now it's time to let loose. The Guinean people deserve more. My school in Tormelin deserved a great math teacher. Hell they gave me a house and food, and I sat there for 6 days without even explaining to them why I was leaving. Though I'm pretty sure they understood why. The Guinean people deserve a stable government; they deserve the chance to live their own lives without fear.

For everyone one at home, hold Guinea in your hearts. People are being killed every few days now in the capital. It is a scary situation for all.

Before I sign out, I do want to say I'm excited about Burkina Faso. I know it will be a terrific experience and that I feel I have made the right decision in continuing on. Part of me still yearns though to give my 8th grade and 9th grade classes in Tormelin the math lessons that I was excited to give. I keep thinking that if those events in Conakry never happened, how would I have spent my Halloween in Guinea?

Thanks to all my fellow Volunteers who helped pull each other through such trying times. Thanks to my folks for supporting me through everything. But most of all, thanks to the Guinean people for giving me even the short experience of having the chance to work and live within your community, nothing I could ever do for Guinea could replace what Guinea has done for me. Best of luck to everyone returning to the USA, and also to those continuing on to Senegal, the Gambia, Benin, Mali, Zambia, Botswana, Madagascar, Jamaica, and Liberia.

Vivre la Guinee

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Dylan is Burkina Bound

So after an emotional 3 weeks in Mali, I have discovered my new placement. Dylan is going to Tenkodogo, Burkina Faso. I will be teaching IT at the local high school to students in grades 6-12.

A little about Tenkodogo, or at least what I know. I am taking a full 360 from lush Tormelin steamy jungles to the hot savannah. My town is also not a town, it is a sprawling city, a regional capital. There are 40,000+ people in my city, and there is even an airport according to Google Maps. That's not saying much of course, but it's exciting nevertheless.

Burkina, no doubt about it, is hot. Perhaps one of the hottest countries in the world. While I'm not the biggest fan of saunas, I am very excited of my job, and the prospect of being so close to many bordering countries. Ghana, Togo, and Benin are all within a day's drive. I'm hoping to take a trip to Benin for New Year's because I now have a buddy being placed there as well. Beaches there are supposed to be top notch.

Oh and the last big thing, Burkina Faso is a stable country, a nice change from the political turmoil in Guinea.

While I will deeply miss Guinea and all of the good friends that I made during my 3 months over there, I'm excited to start anew in Burkina and make a new set of friends. Hell if there is one thing that I know I can do, it's make the most of any situation. This will be a challenge, but a good life experience all the same.

Oh and for everyone out there. I will be changing the URL to dylaninburkina.blogspot.com in the next couple of weeks. Need to give you folks time to adjust (and me as well).

Friday, October 16, 2009

Consolidation, Mali, and My Future

Well folks the last time I wrote a decent blog entry it was full of exciting news. I was just sworn in as a volunteer, I had passed my language level to an international standard of intermediate high, and I was preparing for what I hoped to be a fun filled service of two years.

Well now the situation has changed. Due to the recent tragic violence in Conakry, where 157 people have been confirmed dead with many more missing according to recent reports, I, and about 95 other Peace Corps Guinea Volunteers have been consolidated in Mali. Before I talk anything about my situation, I would like to say a few words about what happened in Guinea. For those who don’t know, Guinea is now run by a military captain named Mussah Dadiss Camara. Without being political, Dadiss has not backed down from running for president in next year’s supposed elections. The international community has put continued pressure on Dadiss, but not until the recent events on September 28th.

157 people confirmed dead in a stadium in an attack carried out by the Guinean military. The people gathered there were protesting the CNDD (the party of the military). I have no idea what led to the violence, I have heard many different stories, but the violence is completely unwarranted. Since that day Guinea is no longer a blurb in the Africa page on BBC but a headline on NPR and media organizations all over the world. Before coming here I never knew what this country was, now the whole world knows.

I spent one fairly uneventful week at site that actually ended up being a lot of fun. I taught a kid to play chess, kids to play ultimate Frisbee, and failed misarbely at teaching dominoes. Dominoes boggles my mind because the game is so damn easy, but whatever. I thought after the kid learned chess, dominoes would be a cake walk. Got lots of terrific food and enjoyed being the talk of the town for a good 6 days.

Coolest story I had at site. One day I hopped on my bike and did some awesome mountain biking throughout the jungles around my site. I ride up to the side of a huge mountain, and sure enough there is a guy in a hut just chilling. I ask him if I can climb this mountain, and not only does he say yes, he guides me up. The view from the top was just incredible and it gave me one of those “holy shit I’m in Africa” feelings you get from time to time. Truly fanstastic and I hope to one day perhaps visit that cliff again.

Bamako, Mali is a remarkable city. The city is known for music and night life and is coined the capital of West African tunes. I though it was Dakar, but after being in Bamako it’s easy to believe why Bamako takes the cake. I went to a movie the other night in a working movie theater, swam in a nice swimming pool, and went to a sweet bar with good beer. Wonderful city I must say.

Two good stories for everyone.

The Border Crossing:
The border crossing into Mali was a very interesting experience, if for the sole reason it showed two completely different mentalities. For one, getting to the border took 35 hours in a bus packed with 25 people. We arrived at the border at 9pm where we met a Regional Security Officer with the US Embassy. This man got stuff done.

As Peace Corps Volunteers we are very used to sitting, waiting, and letting the day go by. We tend to take things in stride because we have to. Trying to speed up the village life is a waste of time so we must adapt to adopting village time and working accordingly. As you can imagine, the RSO had a very different mentality. This guy had a schedule, and was not about to compromise it with a bunch of crazy Peace Corps Voluneers. Within 30 25 Volunteers were able to make it through 5 military barrages without Visas (and in a different story without Passports). A remarkable accomplishment I must say. We were a bunch of “deer in headlights.”

Sorry story is not so entertaining. Just ask any PCV about their mentalities and the story will be far more entertaining.

Another good story:

Mali vs. Sudan, Africa Cup of Nations Qualifier. Yeah. I was there. That officially checks that off the list. What a match man. I sat in the upper deck above the midline with a slew of Malian drummers. They were loud and proud.

Africans take the game so seriously. Every call made at least 20 men in my section were up making the sign for the appropriate call or complaining about how a man was open and was missed by the man with the ball. Imagine a DC United game, with the Barra Brava, except that is the whole stadium. These guys are nuts man, and they do it all without alcohol. In fact, half time is prayer time, so everyone leaves to pray for the 15 minute break before returning to their seats. Riot police surround every section and heavily armed guards surround the stadium in case of any turmoil. It’s very intense.

The match remained 0-0 right up until the final minute, when Mali scored. That is when the party started. People went beserk with happiness, so crazy in fact that some guy picked me up out of my seat and waved me around. I thought I was going over the wall into the lower deck in which case I would not be writing to you right now. That did not happen, and I can safely say that I am still here today. 1-0 Mali over Sudan, and with the victory Mali has now qualified for the Africa Cup of Nations. What an excellent match.

I bring this to a close because it is getting ridiculously hot and I’m getting quite lazy with regards to typing. I do not have any information on what will be happening to my Peace Corps service. I cannot say yet whether or not we will return to Guinea or if I will transfer to another country. I have mentally checked out of Guinea so I am fully prepared to transferred if I am given the option. We have also been given the option to close service with full benefits, but I personally would like to continue as a Volunteer. I will be sure to keep everyone informed.

Oh and I changed my name. Mamadou Djoubate is now Mamadou Soumah.

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Dylan is in....Bamako?

Yes that's right. With all the tragedy that has occured in Conakry over the next few days, I, and the rest of Peace Corps Guinea have been consolidated in Bamako, Mali. I am perfectly safe and sound and in fact living it up in the Peace Corps Mali training facility. It's almost like summer camp I have to say. We played basketball, drank Coca Cola, and get this, I played Settlers of Catan for 3 hours this afternoon! Not a bad consoladation I must say.

Anyway all we have is 30 minute time slots because all 90+ of us need to use these comps, so I just really wanted to say I am safe and sound and everything is great here. In fact, we are going to the Mali-Sudan world cup qualifier on Sunday!

Saturday, September 26, 2009

Dylan is a New Volunteer

Saturday, September 26, 2009

It has been almost a month since I last posted and well, as usual, lots of changes have occurred in my life. Let’s start things off with the most major and important of changes.

Dylan is no longer a Stagiere, or Trainee. Official job title now toute la monde: Volunteer. If you ask me, it’s rather hilarious to think of Volunteer being an official job position. 6 months ago that concept was bizarre. 3 months ago (when I first landed here) all I wanted to be was a Volunteer. Now, as of Friday the 25th, I have achieved just that. A Volunteer, for all of you non Peace Corps folks, is actually a very prestigious position, especially here in Guinea. We are well respected in many parts of the world because of the nature of what we do.

I am education Volunteer in Guinea. Teachers in Guinea, before all the corruption became rampant, used to be one of the few positions highly respected in village. Teachers now do not get paid very much, so they must live off of bribes from students. I do not blame them in the least, I mean people have to eat right? But the problem is that students now do not have the same respect anymore for teachers. Volunteer teachers, are an exception. We don’t accept bribes, beat children, or take part in any activity that endanger our roles here as Peace Corps Volunteers. We simply bring our American values of education and free-thought, and must mix it into a Guinean education system adopted from the French. A difficult task, but one that is extremely rewarding.

The Swearing-In Ceremony was a lovely ceremony, complete with the best food I have had in country. We were proudly sworn in by the Chef d’Affairs in Guinea (currently the USA does not have an ambassador in country so the man who acts as such was in charge of swearing us in). His speech was very moving, and you could tell by the power of his words that he truly believed in the spirit of the Peace Corps and what we all represent. It was very funny though, being surrounded by officials wearing standard business attire, while we all word colorful boubous made for the occasion. One of these days I will have photos up of the event when the internet is actually working.

The last month was practice school. Practice school was really our first real interaction with teaching in the Guinean system, or for someone like me, teaching at all. We had to work our asses off, and teaching in French makes it only that much harder. To all the teachers in the world, I have a newfound respect for your job. You guys are some of the hardest working people I know. Hell I only teach for 12 hours a week (but in French), I can’t imagine having to do 5-6 classes a day for 8 hours.

It was a very challenging experience, but it was great to really begin using my French in a more academic setting. I still talk like a 6 year old which the kids all make fun of, but at least I know my math, which gives me some respect in the class. I also grew out a nice beard, and I told kids I was in between the age of 35 and 67. Beards help with that a whole lot.

But time to end the Forecharia chapter, and begin my life in Tormelin. Training is over. Tomorrow I will depart to Boke to take care of some general moving in shopping (yeah we got a fat brick of cash to buy stuff) and then it’s off to my house. I have not seen anything yet. Being at site is what the Peace Corps is all about. I will be alone for the first time, living in a house in the jungle, speaking French and Susu only. There are a couple of volunteers within 30km of me, so I will have that English option, but generally it will be me struggling for awhile until I have a good grasp of the language.

From what I hear, the first 3 months at site are the toughest, most grueling months of your entire service. Training is difficult because of all the cultural changes, diet changes, and getting used to pooping in a latrine. Site is a different change, where for the first time you must learn to live on your own. We no longer have a schedule, there is nobody telling us what to do, nobody to speak English with. It requires a lot of self-motivation to get through, a lot of humility, and a whole lot of determination. But everyone says, that after those first 3 months, you will be very rewarded and fall in love with your site. So here’s hoping for just that.

A little about my future:

I get one trip every month to my regional capital. As of now I am not sure if it will be Boke or Conakry, but I’m willing to bet that I will be splitting time between the two since I am between both. I have perfect cell phone service at my site, so anybody can call me anytime. My mail runs are now going to be the first Friday of every month, so if you send something to me in the middle of October for example, expect that I won’t get it until the first Friday in December (assuming it takes 2 weeks to get here).

Anyway I am off to celebrate the last night with many of my folks whom I won’t see til Christmas. Wish me well on the beginning of my new journey!

Thursday, August 27, 2009

Tormelin

Hey everyone,
Just wanted to let you all know that things are good and I am ok. I saw my site and I have to say it's amazing. It's big enough for anybody wanting to come visit, and it's surrounded by caves, jungles, and mountains. A perfect place for a little 2 week vacation if I do say so myself. Anyway I don't have much time today, but I'm back in Forecharia getting ready to start practice school, the final 3 week phase of training before I am officially a volunteer. All is well here and I will try and have a much more detailed blog post when I'm back in Conakry at the end of September.

Some quick notes before I head out.
-Beer on tap in Fria does exist
-There is ice cream in Fria too for dirt cheap
-If anyone is going to South Africa for World Cup 2010, please let me know. I am desperate to get started on booking this trip, but I need to know if anyone is going and would like to attend/split costs of matches, hotel rooms, etc.


Peace

Friday, August 14, 2009

Mamadou is in Mamou

Well it’s been about two weeks since I last wrote a blog entry so I guess it’s time for another. Not much news to report since Conakry, no intersting stories like last time. I have, however, been my typical self, a roller coaster of emotions. I kind of flipped out this week, but it’s more or less do to the fact that my entire world exist of 16 other people than myself. I love everyone to death, but sometimes I just need my space. On top of that, my family was serving me absolute disgusting food that I just could not take.
So what have I been doing to destress and eat better? Well I will answer the second question first because the solution is easier. Since I was unsure of the best way to go about improving my meals, I approached my cross culture director and he told me to talk to my host brother about the issue, who I’m very close with. He simply asked me what I would like, and presto, I had the best dinner in Guinea that night. Easy as pie, food issues solved. All I really needed was variety, and that has been given.
Now on to the more difficult issue of how to deal with stress. Training is stressful. No joke about it. On top of taking 4 hours of French class, and 4 hours of education training, you are quickly forced to adapt to a new culture, new diet, and a host of other issues that come with it. And again, with the lack of access to the outside world, your whole world is 16 other people. So naturally, I get stressed.
I have picked up yoga has a side activity, as well as jogging. Since school last too long for me to join in any soccer games, I have to find ways to keep myself in shape. Yoga has quickly become a favorite activity, and while I still hate jogging, I have nothing else to do but deal with it. Somedays I hop on my bike and go on a 10 mile loop ride, but not very often. Basically if I keep up steady physical schedule, and a good diet, dealing with the other things that I can’t control is just easier.
So onto more exciting news. This week I’ll be checking out my site, Tormelin. For those who have not heard, Tormelin is in Fria, a state-type-thing if you will. The capital, if you will, Fria, is supposed to be an amazing town with ice cream and beer on tap. A cold beer, on tap, is always a welcome addition. Don’t get it very often in Guinea, or at all. So I head to Boke Sunday, then to Tormelin Tuesday, then back to Forecharia Saturday. Saturday starts the most intense part of training, practice school, but a little break will be a welcome surprise.

I have met my supervisor and he says the town is very excited to host me. I will be the third volunteer, but first since the evacuation in 2007. I’ll be teaching 8th and 9th grades to start, but I’m in charge of the math department seeing as how I am the only math teacher at my college (what the French call middle school). While my French still has a ways to go, the math trainer at Peace Corps told my supervisor that my math is superiour so I will eventually have the responsibility of guiding the 7th and 10th grade courses (which are taught by chemistry teachers). And at the end of the year, I will be responsible for holding a Breve review (Breve is the high school entrance exam) after I have more or less become adapt at French.

So exciting, but difficult times, still await. Yet I am doing everything I can to make the most of what I can.
-Dylan

Saturday, August 1, 2009

The Land of Akon and Mamadou Djoubate

So if you have not all guessed, Mamadou Djoubate is me. My host family in Forecharia gave it to me the first day upon arrival, so as I travel around town, I get berated with Mamadou, Mamadou! Or Fote Fote (which is what us white people are called here) and I simply smile and forget their names 2 seconds later. When you are dealing with 6 last names and an uncountable number or first names, you tend to forget things easily. Whatever it happens, don't judge me.

Anyway, it has been three weeks since I last blogged and as you might imagine, not a thing has happened. Nope, nothing. Well actually that's completely opposite of the truth, but one would have no clue what is happening outside of Forecharia, so yes, nothing MAJOR has happened. However, lots of minor things can happen in 3 weeks and I will do my best to elaborate.

My family consists of 3 brothers, one of which was born with serious defects and is does not leave his bed. It's extremely sad, but the site of him is honestly something that I am still not fit to handle. My other brothers, however, are fantastic and they have both become terrific friends and teachers. Plus it helps that they love to play ball. If you didn't know it before, well I'll tell you again, soccer is the best way to make friends anywhere in the world. I also have 2 beautiful sisters, one older, and one younger. They make fantastic food for me though I must say rice and sauce does grow tiring.

Which leads me to my first story. Seeing as how I never really know what is going on in my house, people are always coming and going, this story should not suprise anyone. I woke up yesterday morning when my brother told me that today, my hostmom was getting remarried...TODAY. Uhhhhhh wtf! And to top it off, she was getting married to a Peace Corps office gaurd and driver. I mean I guess I should have figured something was up with the number of plastic chairs being brought to my house through the week (plastic chairs are signs of baller status here), but I guess I'm just not that good at picking up signs.

So the wedding happened while I was at training for the day and tada, I have a Peace Corps employee hostdad now! As a wedding present, I bought two cans of Fanta. I guess they enjoyed it because it they were drank and thrown out my window pretty fast. Good times you might say.

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Today we are in Conakry, which is why I have access to the internet to begin with. Earlier today, we stopped by the National Museum of Guinea. There were some cool masks and instruments, and some awesome maps, but what was really interesting lied in the temp exhibit. Only in Guinea can you find brochures written in the Susu langauge about Kim Jong Il. That's right, thge exhibit was North Korean art. Need I say more?

Anyway I'm running out of time and I need to check some sport scores. Je suis povre, c'est pas bon.

Send me some letters slackers and let me know about life!

-Dylan

Sunday, July 12, 2009

Training

So yesterday's message was not quite that happy, but don't worry, I'm feeling better now. 2 steps forward, 1 step back. That's culture shock for you.

Tomorrow again we head out to Forecharia and I do know that my cell phone will work whenever. That's pretty much going to be the only way to contact me, or you can always write a letter... Remember those?

Saturday, July 11, 2009

T. I. A.

For any of those who have seen Blood Diamond, T. I. A. This is Africa. This is the real stuff folks, not the safaris and Ace Ventura adventures.

First and foremost, I am healthy. I came down yesterday with a pretty bad case of the runs. Imagine a sponge. Now squeeze that sponge. That sponge was my stomach. It's not fun, but you live. A heads up to those who are thinking of visiting me, I lasted 2 full days before TP became my best friend. And I am not the only one.

Conakry:
Today marked the end of the year exams for high school students in Conakry. To celebrate, every kid in the city went to the beach behind our house to party. It would have been cool to join in, except that there were dudes with sticks collecting bribes or something to get onto the beach. These sticks are an effective use of crowd control when given to a ridiculously jacked Guinean on a power trip. Instead we just watched the party from the roof of the Peace Corps HQ.

The Peace Corps HQ is a little America in what other wise is the farthest place from America I have ever known. It's very difficult to describe some things that I saw today on the bus drive to the Peace Corps dinner, just know that these Conakry streets are not for the faint of heart. I could write all day about what lies outside of these walls, but that would just be spoiling the fun.

Believe it or not, I do have good things to say. My fellow teachers, numbering a total of 17, are awesome. We are Americans from all over the USA all asking the same question right now, "What the hell are we doing here?" Say that with a laugh and hopefully you can share in on the optimism that comes with being a member of the Peace Corps. "The hardest job you will ever love" is what so many call Returned Volunteers say. I'm beginning to see why.

I'm speaking my French with whatever limited vocabulary I now possess. Monday we start our training in Forecharia. For those unfamiliar with the Peace Corps, I will spend the next 3 months living with a host family in what is called the Peace Corps Training Site. Training is 7 days a week, 9 hours a day, full of intensive French, native langauge, and teaching training. When all is said and done, I will then move into my Peace Corps site out in the country side, where I have heard so many great things. Peace Members are located everywhere, with 98 of us scattered throughout.

Not all news is good news, but please no freaking out. It's part of the experience and the difficulties of everyday life. We all have our good and bad days. Not sure when this blog will be updated again because I won't have the internet for awhile, but be sure to check from time time. Salut!

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Phone Number

Just got a new phone! Check on the right.

The HQ

Hey everyone,
I just spent my first night at the Guinea HQ and I got to say it is not too shabby. There are certainly immediate differences between DC and Conakry (like for instance the bar we went to had no lights), but it is so cool. Right away at customs, which by the way is pure chaos, I recognized the developing country smell. For those who don't know it, is it one smell you will never forget. It's not bad or good, just distinct, and it's a smell that tells you welcome to the real world.

So far the people I have met are wonderful, new PCVs and old PCV's. Everyone is very young and for the most part saying the same thing, "What the hell am I doing here?" Have no fear everyone, I am totally safe and having a pretty good time. I love being able to speak my limited French, and hopefully I will be piling it on.

On Monday we head out to our training village where there won't be any internet access. I'll be there for 3 months so do not expect too many updates. Someone from our group is going out to buy cellphones tomorrow so as soon as I know my number I will post it here.

Later all, it's lunch time!

Sunday, July 5, 2009

One last night in the home that I love

Well this is it folks, I've had my sobbing moment, and it's a safe bet that there will be a couple more. My wonderful neighbor Sterling had his birthday tonight. For those who don't know Sterling, he is a great leader in my community (though he is far to humble to take credit). We had a sing along, and after Country Road, that was it. Had to leave and cry my freaking eyes out.

The moral of my story is simple, people are amazing creatures. We can cause infinite devastation unlike any other creature we have ever know, we can play an epic 5 set Wimbledon Final that goes 16-14, and we can unite in beautiful song that can touch even the hardest of hearts (looking at you Chris... I saw you holding hands). I'm certainly sad, but I'm also happy knowing that when I return, 48th Street will still be around.

To all my friends and family, thanks so much for being and continuing to be a part of my life. I'll see you all sooner than you think, and please, don't forget to write!!!!

Saturday, June 27, 2009

First Post

Hello Everyone!
This is my first post on the online journal that will eventually document my next two years. It's about one week before I leave so right now I don't have much to say, except that I'm freaking excited! Two years in West Africa speaking and learning French. Its some crazy stuff man. I can't wait in two year to speak the ugliest French anyone has ever heard. An American who speaks Guinean French, it's ridiculous.

Sorry it's so short, but I just wanted to get stuff out there and get the blog online. Check back ever once in awhile because I'm sure this blog will get nice and juicy (like a tender juicy steak that I will NOT be having for awhile).