Burkina Faso Bike Tour

272km by bike and 252km by car and I have found myself back in Ouaga. That's right, the bike tour is now over for me. While I wished to continue, it is time to return back to Tenkodogo to begin working again...or at least return for another week before I have to leave again.

Day 1 (Day 3 of the official tour)

The bike tour arrived at my site the day before after an extremely difficult day of 90km through a mix of dirt and cement road. The Volunteers-9 total-arrived extremely exhausted and hungry, eating a chicken apiece within 5 minutes of entering Tenkodogo. I thought to myself, man, I am going to be hungry tomorrow. I better get ready for some chicken.

The Tenkodogo-Koupela route is nothing difficult, I have done it multiple times before this event. 45km on a cement road-no challenge whatsoever. I biked it in exactly two hours taking only a 15 minute water break en route.

On arriving in Koupela we of course ate a ton of food with PCV hosts Sara Gensmer and Phil Rodenbaugh before crashing early-a 81km day awaited us.

Day 2 (Day 4 of the official tour)

This was the longest day of biking that I have ever done in my life. 81km on a good cement road with suprisingly little traffic from Koupela to Fada N'Gourma. We completed the route in about 4 hours biking in teams. Mimicking the Tour de France, we drafted each others bike making the time fly by. In those four hours we took multiple breaks and one long 30 minute breakfast stop.

A what-could-have-been major accident was the highlight of this day. Riding pull line style 5km outside of Fada when suddenly our back rider was unable to dodge a pothole going 27km/hr. She, and her bike, flew 10 meters from the hole smashing her elbow, knee, and hip into the pavement. After the initial shock, PCV Rachel Whestone got up, bloody elbows and knees, and said, "Let's finish this." Like the rest of us, she was determined to finish the ride. It will take a lot more than a few bloody scrapes to deter this bike tour from finishing each day.

After arrival, we decided to make a reenactment of the fall and post it online. After a crowd of onlookers, some fake blood tomato paste, and the police come believing that we actually had a real accident only to laugh and see that we were doing a simulation, we posted an excellent reenactment online using PCV Rob Hartiwig as Rachel's stunt double. The video of the events can be seen on the Bike Tour Blog, which will again be posted at the end of this entry.

We went to bed early staying at newly sworn in PCV Joey's (don't know his last name) house. This was also the final day that me and Kirstin were able to ride together. She started in Po, the official start of the tour, and finished up in Fada.

Day 3 - Ramadan (Day 5 of the tour...you get the picture)

This, before I started the tour, was the day I feared most. 78km on dirt the whole way. It ended up being the easiest and most fun day of my small leg of the tour. The route was Fada N'Gourma-Bilanga.

We made crazy time, gettig into Bilanga around 10AM, but that was only the beginning. Bilanga is surrounded by two large lakes, and in rainy season they surround the town leaving Bilanga somewhat cutoff as an island. PCV Kim Hover informed the town of our arrival, and the mayor of Bilanga took it upon himself to throw us an official welcome party. But the party sat upon the shores of the other bank, and we had this to cross this...

Photo taken by PCV Neal Lepsetz

In Burkina Faso, bridges are built under the water, instead of over, due to the cost. So water flows over at a trickling rate normally through the controlled what I call "down bridges," except during the few months of rainy season where lakes overflow and water rushes at a torrential rate. So how do we cross to meet the welcome crew (wearing white) on the other side? We walk and drive.

Photo taken by PCV Neal Lepsetz

In perhaps the greatest entry that I have ever made, I carried my bike over my shoulder walking the 200 meter distance. While the village wanted to help me carry my bike, I refused. No way was I going to not carry my bike after finishing the 78km to Bilanga. Do these people know who I am? And thanks to Neal, I now have this epic photo to remind me of that amazing entry for the rest of my life.

Photo taken by PCV Robert Hartwig

Thus we arrived, and the welcome party, along with officials and the police, escorted us to Kim's house. The mayor then threw us a lunch with more chicken and Riz-Gras than I could ever eat. Not only was he super excited to play host to our crew, our arrival coincided with Ramadan, so the entire village was invited to eat, dance, and celebrate this grand occasion.

Day 4 (Day 6)

This was a car day. Because this event was an official Peace Corps event not only promoting the program and gender and development, we were also celebrating the 50th anniversary of Peace Corps. Because of this, we had a timeline, and Peace Corps sent a car to follow behind throughout the route carrying our baggage, extra water, and medical supplies. Day 4 was planned as a car day because of the intensive milaege, 152 km from Bilanga to Tougari.

The car was delayed and arrived at 4 PM, meaning that this voyage was going to go into night. Before the car arrived, we had time to play around in Bilanga a bit. We were able to meet the village chief that morning, and due to a crazy coincidence, we were all wearing shirts matching the colors of the rainbow. So we took a couple of photos, and I think we look great.

Top Row from left: New PCV Jen (don't know her last name), Josh Gwinn, Neal Lepsetz, the Mayor of Bilanga M. Djingri Charles Lakoande, Rachel Whetstone, Julie Lishansky, an official from Bilanga that I can't remember the name of, and Kim Hover

Bottom Row from left: Robert Hartwig, Emma Prasher, Dylan Butler, Marita Whalen, Kim Hover's host brother, and a 2nd host brother

Photo taken by PCV Robert Hartwig

We were also able to experiment with a very interesting plate of food. After some convincing, four of us together (Rob, Rachel, PCV Josh Gwinn, and I) decided to taste sheep testacles. And you know what? It wasn't as bad as we thought it would be. If we didn't know ahead of time I would have thought I was eating spam.

Photo taken by PCV Neal Lepsetz

So our second car finally came and we left Bilanga at 4:30PM. And as these things go, naturally our car broke down. So naturally, we pulled out a laptop and watched Ironman 2 under the stars. What, your job doesn't let you watch Ironman 2 under the starts in Burkina Faso? Villagers came out of nowhere and sat down watching our movie too-listening to their commentary was rather hilarious. I can only imagine what went across their minds when they randomly stumbled across a crew of Americans watching a movie in the middle of nowhere.

Photo taken by PCV Emma Prasher

After about 6 hours of being broken down and travelling in the car, we arived in Tougari, the site of PCV Emily Prasher at about midnight.

Day 5- My Final Day (Day 7)

We awoke at 6 AM this day due purely to our exhaustion from the night before (normal bike time wake up is 4:45 AM). Because of this, we didn't leave til 7:30 AM, a big mistake for what happened to be the hottest day of the tour. The route was Tougari to Kaya, a total distance of 68km. And it got hot, really really hot.

Around noon, the absolute hottest part of the day with temperatures reaching well over 100 degrees, we passed the first major tree in this part of the country (northern Burkina is lacking in trees). Very convienently, under this tree housed a watermelon market with hundreds of fresh watermelons. As you can imagine, it was the most perfect stop you can possibly have. We ate two huge water melons (each costing 300 CFA, or 60 cents) and continued with newfound energy the last 10km of my section of the tour.

To highlight my arrival into Kaya, this lovely house was painted with this image.

Photo taken by PCV Robert Hartwig

Welcome to "Wachingtone" and the end of my journey. It was a bittersweet departure, and I almost chose to keep going. Make it known that I did not want to stop, I was feeling great and having tons of fun. I wish best of luck to the 7 permanent riders, PCVs Rob Hartwig, Emma Prasher, Rachel Whetstone, Joshua Gwinn, Neal Lepsetz, Marita Whalen, and Julie Lishansky and to all the other riders who have and will be participating in Burkina Faso Bike Tour. I also want to thank the three organizers, Julie, Rachel, and Marita for organizing such a great event and allowing me to participate.

I hopped in the car going the 100 km back to Ouaga, along with Kim Hover who rode this leg of the trip. So there you have it, 272 km by bike and 252 km by car. What a great trip!

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So why didn't I continue? Believe me it tore me apart, but stupid reasoning or not, I believe it was the right decision. I have not been at site a whole lot this summer due to massive amounts of travelling, so with the big meeting for the administration of my school on the 15th (which apparently nobody goes too) I feel as if I have to be back there. And since Kirstin and I will be doing a computer camp at her site Komthoega at the end of the month I need to at least make an appearance in Tenkodogo.

But the biggest reason for saying adieu to my comrades on the tour is that I must say adieu to another comrade, my buddy Phil Rodenbaugh. He has accepted to transfer back to Guinea to do his final year back in the country I trained in. While I have since gained 3 new people from my training group back in Guinea in Burkina (3 of my training mates repeated training and just swore-in in Burkina Faso), Phil is my final link to those days in Guinea. We have been through all of this together. From Philidelphia, to Guinea, to Burkina, the two of us have taken quite a ride together. But he is following his heart and has worked hard to go back to Guinea. My heart is here in Burkina Faso now so we must go our separate ways, but I wanted to come back to wish him good luck in what will be a very challenging, yet I am sure rewarding experience for him.

Last but not least, please click on the link again for the Burkina Fasa Bike Tour and check out the reenactment of the bike accident video we created, I think it is hilarious. For reference, it's day 4 of the tour and the title of the blog entry is Day 4: Hit the Ground...Riding. Don't forget to donate! Even 10 bucks (the equivalent of 5000 CFA) helps us out tremendously here in Burkina Faso. That much money can buy 5 custom made tshirts for volunteers forming girls soccer teams, or enough material for a women's group to make several gallons of soap to sell at the market or to promote handwashing. The possibilities are endless!