Well folks the last time I wrote a decent blog entry it was full of exciting news. I was just sworn in as a volunteer, I had passed my language level to an international standard of intermediate high, and I was preparing for what I hoped to be a fun filled service of two years.
Well now the situation has changed. Due to the recent tragic violence in Conakry, where 157 people have been confirmed dead with many more missing according to recent reports, I, and about 95 other Peace Corps Guinea Volunteers have been consolidated in Mali. Before I talk anything about my situation, I would like to say a few words about what happened in Guinea. For those who don’t know, Guinea is now run by a military captain named Mussah Dadiss Camara. Without being political, Dadiss has not backed down from running for president in next year’s supposed elections. The international community has put continued pressure on Dadiss, but not until the recent events on September 28th.
157 people confirmed dead in a stadium in an attack carried out by the Guinean military. The people gathered there were protesting the CNDD (the party of the military). I have no idea what led to the violence, I have heard many different stories, but the violence is completely unwarranted. Since that day Guinea is no longer a blurb in the Africa page on BBC but a headline on NPR and media organizations all over the world. Before coming here I never knew what this country was, now the whole world knows.
I spent one fairly uneventful week at site that actually ended up being a lot of fun. I taught a kid to play chess, kids to play ultimate Frisbee, and failed misarbely at teaching dominoes. Dominoes boggles my mind because the game is so damn easy, but whatever. I thought after the kid learned chess, dominoes would be a cake walk. Got lots of terrific food and enjoyed being the talk of the town for a good 6 days.
Coolest story I had at site. One day I hopped on my bike and did some awesome mountain biking throughout the jungles around my site. I ride up to the side of a huge mountain, and sure enough there is a guy in a hut just chilling. I ask him if I can climb this mountain, and not only does he say yes, he guides me up. The view from the top was just incredible and it gave me one of those “holy shit I’m in Africa” feelings you get from time to time. Truly fanstastic and I hope to one day perhaps visit that cliff again.
Bamako, Mali is a remarkable city. The city is known for music and night life and is coined the capital of West African tunes. I though it was Dakar, but after being in Bamako it’s easy to believe why Bamako takes the cake. I went to a movie the other night in a working movie theater, swam in a nice swimming pool, and went to a sweet bar with good beer. Wonderful city I must say.
Two good stories for everyone.
The Border Crossing:
The border crossing into Mali was a very interesting experience, if for the sole reason it showed two completely different mentalities. For one, getting to the border took 35 hours in a bus packed with 25 people. We arrived at the border at 9pm where we met a Regional Security Officer with the US Embassy. This man got stuff done.
As Peace Corps Volunteers we are very used to sitting, waiting, and letting the day go by. We tend to take things in stride because we have to. Trying to speed up the village life is a waste of time so we must adapt to adopting village time and working accordingly. As you can imagine, the RSO had a very different mentality. This guy had a schedule, and was not about to compromise it with a bunch of crazy Peace Corps Voluneers. Within 30 25 Volunteers were able to make it through 5 military barrages without Visas (and in a different story without Passports). A remarkable accomplishment I must say. We were a bunch of “deer in headlights.”
Sorry story is not so entertaining. Just ask any PCV about their mentalities and the story will be far more entertaining.
Another good story:
Mali vs. Sudan, Africa Cup of Nations Qualifier. Yeah. I was there. That officially checks that off the list. What a match man. I sat in the upper deck above the midline with a slew of Malian drummers. They were loud and proud.
Africans take the game so seriously. Every call made at least 20 men in my section were up making the sign for the appropriate call or complaining about how a man was open and was missed by the man with the ball. Imagine a DC United game, with the Barra Brava, except that is the whole stadium. These guys are nuts man, and they do it all without alcohol. In fact, half time is prayer time, so everyone leaves to pray for the 15 minute break before returning to their seats. Riot police surround every section and heavily armed guards surround the stadium in case of any turmoil. It’s very intense.
The match remained 0-0 right up until the final minute, when Mali scored. That is when the party started. People went beserk with happiness, so crazy in fact that some guy picked me up out of my seat and waved me around. I thought I was going over the wall into the lower deck in which case I would not be writing to you right now. That did not happen, and I can safely say that I am still here today. 1-0 Mali over Sudan, and with the victory Mali has now qualified for the Africa Cup of Nations. What an excellent match.
I bring this to a close because it is getting ridiculously hot and I’m getting quite lazy with regards to typing. I do not have any information on what will be happening to my Peace Corps service. I cannot say yet whether or not we will return to Guinea or if I will transfer to another country. I have mentally checked out of Guinea so I am fully prepared to transferred if I am given the option. We have also been given the option to close service with full benefits, but I personally would like to continue as a Volunteer. I will be sure to keep everyone informed.
Oh and I changed my name. Mamadou Djoubate is now Mamadou Soumah.
